Monday, 28 October 2013

2--My Motor-Biking Expedition through Old Mughal Road - 2


 Our Proposed en-route plan for the day-2 ride (22nd july 2012.) is--

 Jammu---Akhnoor---Chooki choora---Kalidhar---Bhamla---Sunderbani---Baripatan---Nowshera--- Chengus---Rajouri---Thanamandi---Deera Gali

Since the whole stretch of the Mughla Road is narrow and very dangerous. And on top of this, the month of July is a rainy season with a heavy  down pour of slashing torrential rains and frightening thunder storms. That too all along the whole stretch, it is full of dangerous landslides, endless stretches of mud roads that too are full of sticky, sliding mud slush with endless invisible big & deep potholes. At some places, practically there are no visible roads at all (the proof of these you can see in my picture photographs that I have pasted in my, this blog). So, for all of us, It was a dreadful anxiety of mixed feelings of fearful trauma that in case of any fatal road accident, en-route there is going to be no medical facilities available and no villagers  will come to our immediate rescue, because en-route the whole stretch of road  is hardly uninhabited. And even In case of any break down of our motor bikes, no mechanics would come to our rescue, because en-route there exists no motor bike mechanics at all. Same time we were dreadfully scared to travel on this route, because nearly all these mountainous terrines are  densely infested by dreadful, hardcore, trigger-happy, Pakistani trained terrorists.  But still the thrill of braving the unknown dreadful dangers, pumped more adrenaline into our mind, body and soul and just like the dare devils, all of us were game for any dangerous natural and unnatural challenges. Like any die-hard motor biking enthusiasts, We just rode without thinking any negative. To boost our morals, all of us lifted our tight fist-arms, high up into the sky and roared in unison, “ Lets GO”. It was some thing like a conviction of a Dare-Devil like, unbroken pledge that come what may we will bravely face the un-predictive en-route challenges.

 Starting From Jammu on 22nd July 2012

Previous night we couldn't sleep well, may be because all of us were equally anxious with the anxiety, what worst may happen en-route.  So because of that anxiety, all of us got up earlier than at what time we had scheduled to wake up. After cold water bath, we packed our baggage and roped them to our respective motor bikes. It was a clear day, so we just kept rain Jackets handy, in case of rain.

So, today on 22st of July 2012 morning, after our heavy breakfast at our Parimoo house, round about at 9:30 A.M. under the combined banner of our Royal Enfield motor Biking club called as “(URU) United Riders Udupi ”, as well as Environment Awareness Form, (J & K), under the SLOGAN of “SAVE HIMALAYA”, we, Ashok Parimoo, Bushan Parimoo, Krishna Hebbar, Kiran Kinni, Ganesh and Abhimanyu, with best wishes for our safe Journey, we were flagged off, by our neighbors, friends & relatives, at UNO lane Talab-Tillo, Jammu Tawi- (J & K state). 

Note :-- This Road from Akhnoor all along up to Poonch runs through highly volatile (LOC) India Pakistan Boarder. The crow flying distance, all along this Mughal Road that runs in between  India and Pakistan highly volatile boarder, varies from 3 to 5 Km. only. The hostilities of volatility is in  this picture.


With the full thrilling excitement, we moderately throttled our motor-bikes on fairly fine road from Jammu to Akhnoor . Since Krishna Hebbar, Abhimanuyu, Ganesh and Bushan Parimoo were ridding on their maiden adventurous ride that too on the toughest mountainous rugged and dangerous roads. So, in their maiden riding excitement it was a mixed feeling of the unknown danger and thrilling adventure.

Though the distance from Jammu to Akhnoor is only about 30 Km, but because of very heavy traffic of continues  running of Army convoy of trucks as well as endless civilian transport systems on either side of this road, we took nearly little more than one hour. All along on the both sides of the road, there were endless rows of good concrete houses in the villages. Looking around at the cluster of TV dish antenna discs, fitted on roof top of practically every village house, I am sure all these villages must be having the basic modern amenities such as electricity,  TV set, a Refrigerator, etc. Now since there is a new  big cemented bridge constructed on river Chenab, so just to avoid the congested and  narrow main town of Akhnoor, we took the route of the new bridge, which acts as a bypass for Akhnoor town.

From Akhnoor right upto the end of Poonch town, i.e. all along the India and Pakistan Boarder, called as LOC (Line Of Control). On either side of the road there are Army camps,  Army cantonments, Army Brigade head quarters and round the clock nonstop activities of Army trucks carrying fresh supplies of Army Jawans, Food, Ration and Ammunition.  When we outsiders, first timers, look at it, to all of us who enter here in this region, we get scared thinking as if we are crossing some kind of WAR Zone. But then at the same time we Indians are very proud of our Jawans, who guard our mother India’s territories, even at the cost of sacrificing their own valuable lives. We all Indians owe them gratitude of very high esteem of respect. We salute them by roaring at the top of our voice “JAI  JAWAN” 

Brief Introduction of AKHNOOR :---

This town is situated on the bank of river Chenab. The popular story of how “VIRAT NAGAR” got its name converted to Akhnoor, is that the Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s wife had a vision problem. It was prescribed by a local Hindu priest who was also a very renowned Ayurveda doctor of his times. He advised if she washes her eyes with the holy water of the Chenab River, using particular Ayurvedic medicine  which he had prescribed, her vision would restore. The queen followed the advise of the Hindu preiest and she regained her vision to perfection. In Udrdu “Noor” means vision and “Akh” means eyes. So the town was renamed as  AKHNOOR.

Kalidhar Ghatty

After  travelling for more than 20 Km from Akhnoor, we start riding on a steep up climbing motor-able road which runs through the mountainous zig-Jag windings road that passes through the dangerous Kalidhar Ghat. Here at this kalidhar Ghat there used to occur  many fatal accidents where many travelers, specially the Army Jawans who while traveling by Army trucks would fall deep down through the mountains deep gorges  and would eventually die.  After the construction of this Kali-Devi's temple at Kalidhar accidental spot, the number of fatal accidents have practically reduced to nil. Almost every one who travels through this ghat, stops here at the Kali Devi's temple, just to take blessings for every ones onward sate journey.

Bushan Parimoo has a friend here by the name SURAJ PRAKASH, who is a retired army officer and is also an ardent environmentalist. Here adjutant to the Kali temple, there is a small time road side tea shop, where we had delicious hot tea, hot Paneer-Pakodas, local sweet barffi  and aloo-parontha. It was so refreshing that we got fully charged for the onward travel with full enthusiasm.  


 Sunderbani is a beautiful small India Pakistan boarder town on Pooch Highway. It’s surrounded by thick pine forest and high mountains. Since there is nothing much of a tourist spots, so we rode through the town without stopping. That's why I have not written any thing more about this small town.  


By the time we reached chingus, it was well passed lunch time and practically all of us were nearly famished. Right opposite to Emperor Jahangir's tomb there is a resturant which severs all types of freshly cooked hot food and also sevrves whatever breverages any one desires. We took nearly one hour's break to refresh and finsh our lunch.

Chingus  Fort or Chingus Sarai, is an ancient fort in Rajouri district of Jammu and Kashmir. The fort dates back to the 16th century. Chingus was used by Mughal emperor as rest camp or transit camp during their annual journey to Kashmir. It is a well planned edifice of Mughal architectural style that having two apartments. The name Chingus carries an interesting history of Mughal kingdom. It has been derived from Persian word 'Chingus', which means intestines. The fort complex houses one of the two graves of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, who died enroute from Kashmir to Delhi. Other one is in Lahore, Pakistan. In order to avoid succession war, Noor Jahan buried the intestine and other abdominal parts of the emperor in the premises of the sarai and protects the body from decay

Ralouri :--

The district Rajouri has distinctive history. The remnants of various structures built during the Moughal era are reminiscent of glorious past of Rajouri earlier known as Rajapura and was an area of importance in ancient times Based on Mahabartha evidence and the evidences from the Chinese traveler Yuan Chawang, the district of Rajouri, Poonch and Abhisara had been under the sway of Republic of Kambojas, during epic times. Around Rajouri district there are plenty of tourist sight seeing spots around here . It's a district head quarter which has many tourist sight seeing spots around here. Few of which are described bellow.  

                                                      Usman Memorial;---

Usman Memorial, has been constructed at Jhangar in the memory of Brig. Usman who was mainly responsible for freeing the captured area around Jhangar, in 1947 war by Pakistani army. After having captured this strategic area, Brig. Usman convened a conference of army officers to decide future course of action. Meanwhile, he fell to heavy shelling of the enemy on 3rd July 1948. This great memorial is maintained by the Infantry Unit located at Jhangar. The heroic deeds of army men as well as civilians who died while fighting in this area are commemorated every year on 3rd July as “Jhangar Day.”  

Dhandidhar Fort.:---

Dhandidhar is a historical monument located on a hill in the vicinity of Rajouri town. This fort was probably constructed by Mughal king during the reign of Emperor Jahangir nearly 400 years back. It is just 2 Kms away from Rajouri presenting panoramic and impressive view of the entire area. This is a tourist spot.


L oran is a small town situated 34 Kms north of Poonch town. It was once the capital of Poonch state under Hindu ruler  up to 1542. According to Rajatarangini, it was then known as Lohar Kote. There are ruins of the Lohar Kote fort which was called as Gateway of Kashmir but now it is destroyed. At this fort, Raja Trilochan Pal defeated Sultan Mohmood Gazanavi. This spot is surrounded by thick forests and some snow clad peaks. The remnants of fortified Mughal inns are a pleasant reflection of the glorious days of the place when it used to be a camping site for the royal Mughal entourage proceeding toward Kashmir valley


Surankot is called as mimi Kashmir, and is always compared with Phalgam of Srinagar, There are not much of tourist spots around here..

Deera Gali

Deera Gali is a very scenic small hamlet which is thickly surrounded with lush green pine forests and is situated at top tip of the mountain. It’s the place where we stayed for the first night. Here forest department has constructed four beautiful cottages naming them after the Himalayan forest trees, PINE, FIR, DEVDAR and OAK . By the time we reached here at Deera Gali, it was around about 6:30 in the evening, that for this lonely place was quite late. Ater checking in, for the first time we realized that the fasting month of Muslims called as “Ramdan” had started. And during this fasting month no cooked foods are available in whole of the Kasmiri valley. Since it was sun set by the time we reached these cottages. Kiran had to rush back some 8 Km. down to the town to buy some available provisions for cooking. The dinner was cooked by the government employed care taker of those cottages. The delicious dinner was served by 8:30. It was Yummy hot vegetarian dinner. The night stay in these cottages was amazingly refreshing and cozy. All of us slept like a dead man.

Deera Gali is a lesser know place. It’s actually a narrow pass which connects Rajouri and Surankote to Buffliaz. Though the road is fully tarred, but the gradient is so steep that it may be easily somewhere in between 60 to 70 degree up. 

All along the district of Rajouri & Poonch, the dialects such as Gujri, Pahari and Dogri are much spoken at the informal level. Gujri is mainly spoken by the Gujjars and Bakarwals tribes who are known for herding goats, sheep and horses. However, the fine line between Gujjar and Bakarwal tribes is that the former trade in Milk and milk products and are farmers also as they own pieces of land. While latter are nomads who trade and herd sheep and goats. The population is officially divided along the religious lines – though religiously diverse masses normally live in peace and harmony. The total population  roughly is 60% Muslim, 37% Hindu, 2% Sikhs and others

Chapter-1, Mughal Road link

Chapter-3, Mughal Road link



Saturday, 26 October 2013


 I; (Ashok Parimoo), on 19th of Oct night was casually explaining to my family members that the motto of YHI is “WANDERING ONE GATHERS HONEY”.    On 20th October 2013 morning, to join other members of YHI at Myathari complex, I did sling my haversack on my left shoulder and said bye to my family. Suddenly one of my family members comes running from the back and with a force shoves in my right hand, one empty plastic container that had a tight lid too. In a surprise I asked what that empty plastic container was for? I was told that since on previous night I had told them the YHI motto. So on this trek I too should collect some wild-fresh HONEY from the forest. In the evening once I reached my home, no one bothered to find out whether I was exhausted and tired? As I entered my house, every one practically pounced on me and grabbed the plastic container and opened the tight lid. To every one’s horror, from the container HONEY didn’t pour out, but only few of blood thirsty LEECHES came out crawling and jumping to grab whomever so they could catch. All of my family members screamed and howled so loud that nearly all our neighborhood came out to see what alarming horror has struck us. The scene was exactly something like a terrible incident from a very scary horror movie. As per my family members, now the motto of HYI trips should be “WANDERING ONE COLLECTS NO HONEY, BUT COLLECTS ONLY LEECHES” How is it?
First, it was YHI member (Udupi)-Deepak, who sends me a SMS, intimating me that on 20th of October 2013, there is a planed YHI-Udupi trek near Byndoor to “ KUDUMARI WATERFALLS”. Later I confirmed about the trek with Raganna too. Since there was still more than a week left for the trek.  I told Raganna that by 18th I shall confirm 100% whether I am coming or not? Since for 18th of Oct there were no prior commitments of mine, so I called Raganna and confirmed with him that I was definitely coming for the trek.
So, on 20th morning sharp by 16:15 AM, I was at Myathari complex, near Udupi bus stand. By the time I reached there, Mr & Mrs Adiga Sir, along with another YHI member were already there. Mr. Adiga Sir told me that there was a sudden change of trekking plan. Because of continuous heavy rains, to go to “ KUDUMARI WATERFALLS” was practically inaccessible. One reason was that we may had to cross a stream which would be full of turbulent forceful water flow and second thing was that it would be too slippery to climb the mountainous terrain that leads up to the “ KUDUMARI WATERFALLS” I was told that it was Rajesh Nayak, who suggested that rather than cancelling the proposed trek, it would be better to go to “SRIMANE & MEGEBAIL WATERFALLS”. So, on behalf of all the members of YHI, who participated in this trek, I convey “Big Thanks to Rajesh Nayak”
As per my personal observation, Rajesk Nayak though is a very quiet and sober personality, who doesn't open his mouth unless asked for. Neither he yaps too much, nor unnecessarily contradicts any ones comments. But he has a vast knowledge of almost all the waterfalls of the Western Ghats. Because, at some time or the other he has practically gone and scaled those toughest terrain waterfalls. Another YHI members who too are veteran trekkers, are Raganna and Adiga sir. So on behalf of all the YHI members, I request to these veterans trekkers, to keep organizing regular trekking programs, in future also. Thank you all.
After 6:30 AM, within another 15 minutes, in a sudden flash-flood like situation, nearly 30 YHI members pour in from all the possible directions. Since, in advance only few members had confirmed of coming for the trek. So, only one traveler tempo was arranged. Then Adiga Sir & Raganna realized that we may need another additional tempo too. So, one additional Inova cab was arranged. Every one realized that if we wait for more time, few more members may pour in. Since there was no more place to accommodate in the two vans, jut to avoid the last minute confusion and misunderstanding. In a panic like situation, we were ushered into the vans and literary ran from there as if some “Phailin” cyclone was going to struck all of us too.

Though, we were nearly 30 YHI members in all. Since there were many new comers, whose names, (I am sorry to say) that I don’t know. But the YHI members whom I knew and who participated for this trek are Mr. & Mrs. KSN. Adiga Sir; Rajesh Nayak; Raganna: Umanath Bhat; Subash Nayak; Suhas Kini; Ganesh; Ananth Shenoy; Kamath-maam (from Mangalore); Sudheer; Damodar (Mangalore); Dayanand (Mangalore); Subash Pai; Guruduth Kamayh; Rohit pai and Shobha.
This time, our YHI members group was so big. It felt just like a big strong YHI-basket, intricately woven with the positive strands of the colourful motivating principals of YHI forum. This YHI-Basket was filled with a variety of different colours of beautiful flowers. There were flowers from all the different age groups. There were (8 to 10 age) buds like Suhas’s daughter & niece,  then (18 to 25 age)  youthful flowers like Studio Raghu and his group, then there were (25-35 age)  “Rajnee-Ghandas” type of flowers those  who are married couple, who are blooming and blossoming with cozy romance, then there were flowers of “love birds” type, like Mr. and Mrs. Adiga sir. Then there were other few colourful flowers, which are fully grown and are at the thrush-hold of getting over ripe. Then there were few like me, who are only “Cactus flowers” that has no fragrance and are full of pokey thorns. We Cactus flowers, though withered are still tightly holding to the stem of life.
The road from Parkala right up to Someshwara was worst. Specially for the guys who were sitting at the last seats of the van, It was so bad that with every violent big jump of the van, it not only shook badly our van but even it shook each and every one’s occupants whole existence. Not only our bodies cried with aches and pains, but even our whole skeleton got dislodged. The journey up to Someshwara was awfully terrible and a real nightmare.
To have breakfast, we stopped at Someshwere village which is at the bottom of Agumbe hill. Since, we were 30 of us, we thought that if all of us enter in to one restaurant, it would take longer to serve to all of us, that would cause further delay to travel for our onward journey. So, we decided to go in to different groups, to different restaurants and have breakfast. At Someshwara though there are three to four restaurants, but all of them belong to one family tree only. Each one of us was served whatever he or she wanted. The only choice was out of hot-hot Neer Dosas; Sweet Buns; Poori Baji; Plain Dosa; hot tea and hot coffee. In addition few of us even packed Parothas and curry for the lunch.
After refreshing ourselves at Someshawara, we drove straight via Agumbe to Kigga. Just to avoid the crowded Sringeri temple town, we took a short cut through interior village mud road, which directly reaches us at a cross junction, where one road goes straight to Kudremukh and another one which turns to right, leads straight to Kigga.
In our van, there was one Mr. Kamath-maam, from Mangalore, who all along our up and down journey, kept all of us entertained with his hilarious jokes. All his jokes were fun, full of laughter and full of double meaning. In his company we didn't realize the time taken for the journey. Thanks Mr. Kamath-maam, your company is full of fun. Few other members also tried to crack jokes. But all of them looked like a small school boy jokes in front of Kamath-maam’s volume of jokes. It’s not the jokes that mattered. It was the way the jokes were narrated and enacted by Kamath-maam, with varying pitch of whispering voices, squeaky sounds and the roaring laughter that too with the appropriate actions that made the jokes more spicy, more laughable and more hilarious. I am sure every single person in our van enjoyed his company. Kamath-Mam you are great fun.
At Kigga, near the ancient Shiva temple, we waited for few more YHI members, who had come to Sringeri directly from Bangalore. After a little while nearly half a dozen youngsters came by auto-rickshaw from Sringere and joined us.
From Kigga (for nearly 5 Km) we drove straight first to “Srimane Waterfalls”. To this waterfall the vehicles go right up to the concrete steps, which lead down to the waterfall. So there is no trekking at all. It’s more like a picnic place rather than a trekking. To go to the waterfall we have to buy an entry ticket of Rs. 5/- each.

The height of the waterfall may be about 40 feet, but plenty of water cascades down with force. It’s thrilling pleasure to have shower right under the waterfall. I think we spent about 45 minutes there and then moved on to go to another waterfall.

Since other than the few old timers, there were many new faces. So, just before going to lesser known “Megebail waterfalls”, Adiga sir requested everyone to stand in a circle and then we had a formal introduction as well as an orientation for the next waterfall called as “Megebail waterfall”
YHi’s no trip is complete without the homely hospitality of Mr. & Mrs. Adiga sir’s mouth savoring home made rejuvenating delicacies. Though I have not done to many adventurous trekking with the Adiga couple. But whenever I had gone, it was never ever complete without the love, affection, concern, fondness, warmth and care which were showered on each one of us with their personal genuine attention. Though to reciprocate non us any have done anything other than that all of us respect them just like we respect our own parents. Thank you sweet couple.
We boarded our respective vans to go to lesser know “Megebail waterfall”.  We had to drive back towards Kigga direction, and after about two Km away from “Srimane Waterfall”, there come a government school, where Adiga sir asked the van driver to stop. As we disembarked the van, Adiga Sir’s, like any famous and renowned magician, from nowhere comes out with couple of metal vessels, paper wrapped packets of eatable stuff and a big packet of the disposal plates. Just like a starved calf who blindly and hurriedly follows after his/her  mother cow, same way we all followed Mr. & Mrs. Adiga sir, who rushed under a shady tree with all the magic stuff. With the magic wand of Adiga couple, there comes out a savory mixture of rejuvenating and hunger quenching sprouted grams, black boiled channas, boiled corns, sprinkled with a pinch of salt, pinch of chili powder and pinch of pepper powdered and pinch of other masalas that must be the trade secret of the great couple, who made the whole eating stuff finger licking, tasty, digestive and filling. The stuff was so delicious and tasty that the whole quantity which looked so big, got over very fast. With the tummies filled, every one thanked the Adiga couple.

What I have realized is that whatever magic tricks Adiga sir, has learnt so far, can produce only vegetarian stuff.  My very special request to Mr. Adiga Sir is that please learn more powerful tricks of magic so that you could produce even some non-vegetarian stuff also.
After finishing our eatables, all of us kept the disposable plates in to our own respective bags. No one littered it on the open space. From the school we boarded our vans and took immediate left turn in to a mud road that leads straight towards Megebail waterfall. If I am not mistaken, it may be about 4 to 5 Km distance. Half way through we had to get down from the vans and walk on foot for may be, another two Km. Because there was a huge tree that had fallen across and had blocked the road. Finally we reach the main house which belongs to Mr. Chandershekher and family. It’s a typical old village ancestral huge house, which is surrounded by all the sides, by Araccanut farm , coconut farms and paddy fields. The house looked full of agricultural farming activities, with the owner’s family and the workers family swarming all over.

Though Mr. Rajesh Naya and Raganna, knew the route to the waterfall, but it was vague, because it was many many years since they had gone last. So just to avoid the doubt, we requested one of the workers of the estate to guide us, which he willingly did oblige.
It was only about 2 Km trek, but there was no proper path, though it was moderately a steep climb but was full of lush green thick bushes, broken trees and tree branches, rotten leaves, wet soil which was infested with hordes of blood thirsty starved leeches. (While coming back, there on the way while walking through the bushes, I unknowingly rubbed my left arm skin against some kind of thick big green leaves. Immediately my whole arms started burning and itching and later it swelled and kept on burning for another two days). At two spots huge trees had fallen and blocked our small bridle path also. All of us to go further had literally to crawl under the broken stem and drag ourselves out on the other side. Almost all of us were attacked by blood thirsty leeches. Leeches from all over came running towards us, as if some powerful magnet was attracting small iron-shavings. Though we tried in vain to avoid from being sucked by leeches, but somehow we failed.
At last we reached the final destination of “Megebail waterfall. The distant view of the water fall was  amazing and refreshing. On every one’s face, there was a big sigh of relief and a big smile of happiness, of achieving the goal.
The cascading of thick and roaring waterfall of aquamarine colour was so refreshing and relaxing.
This waterfall has three stage platforms. First one is, as we enter the stream of river, the next platform is the one which is slightly tougher and higher and the third platform is the one which is tougher and higher up to the point from where the waterfall cascades down. The height of the waterfall may be about 80 feet high. Only few of the members climbed up to the last platform, rest of us camped ourselves at second platform itself. Everyone got into action of clicking pictures, bathing under waterfall, relaxing, enjoying, laughing and screaming.
And once again here too the Adiga “lovey-dovey couple”, came out with their another magic wand trick of preparing the most mouth watering “Kashaya” and served all of us. The courtesy Adigal couple’s “Kashaya” was so refreshing and tasty that it not only quenched our thirst but at  the same time it increased our pangs of hunger for lunch too. Once again the ingredients of this mouth watering taste “Kashaya” are Adiga couple trade secret. As per him whatever they served us, were from their own-kitchen garden and are pure organic stuff. “Long Live Adiga Couple”
After finishing our lunch and repacking, roundabout at 4 PM, we wound up and came back to Kigga, where we clicked a group photo, sitting in front of  the entrance of the Shiva temple. Because, from there the guys who had come from Bangalore had to go back to Sringeri, where as rest of us had to proceed back towards Agumbe via Barkana. Since we were travelling by two separate vans, the van which was in-front of our van most probably didn’t know the exact location where to stop to go to Barkana. They lost the way. So we lost quite some time to catch up with them. By the time we reached the correct spot, it was already about 6 PM and was about to get dark. All of them, except me, Guru and Rajesh Nayak, ventured out in to the forest to reach Bakarna through the muddy, slushy uneven mud road that too was infested with leeches. Anyway it got suddenly so dark, that everyone had to come back without reaching Barkana.

From there we drove straight back to Udupi and by the time we reached Udupi, it was almost 9 Pm.
In the nutshell, thank God that it was a mishap free, wonderful, refreshing, enjoyable and rejuvenating adventurous day outing. Thanks to everyone and we are looking forward for many more HYI trekking in future too. 

Ashok    Parimoo

Friday, 25 October 2013

1--My Motor-Biking Expedition through Old Mughal Road - 1



We; the URU (United Riders Udupi) club members, who participated in this Mughal Road Motor Biking adventurous escapade, convey our very special thanks to Bushan Parimoo, who with his brilliance, planned our whole Motor Biking trip. He guided us up to the extent of where to stay at nights, which short cut and safe routes to take and in and around Kashmir valley, which violence disturbed areas to avoid. If not for him and his intelligent guidance, our trip would have not been so trouble free, economical, relaxed and awesomely enjoyable.

Bushan Parimoo is the founder Member of the NGO of “ Environment Awareness Forum”. Of (J & K) . That’s why the Slogan of our United Banner was 

Our sincere thanks to ALL OUR   Own MOTOR  BIKES, also. Because first of all they reached us all, safe and sound in one piece to our respective homes. The amazing thing is that though we traveled nearly 1,500 Km (One Thousand and Five Hundred Km.}. Can you believe that there was not even a single Minor or Major mechanical break down and also not even a single tyre puncture. It’s amazing. So Our Motor Bikes too deserve  a Big THANKS.

Our very special thanks to "Kashmir Monitor" English News paper also, who published on 25th July 2012 our Motor Biking event under the Caption of 

                                          Ashok   Parimoo

Note:-- We entered Kashmir valley from Mughal Road and came out from Synthan Pass on Kishtwar- Dooda Road.


In ancient times, this formidable tough and treacherous mountainous terrains that now is called as  the "Mughal Road", was seldom  used, to reach Kashmir and was traversed by the Pious-Saints, Holly-Sages, divine Rishis & Munnis, Sufi- Peers & Phakeers, Soothsayers , Faith-healers, ambitious fortune explorers, the famous historians and the renowned Poets. And later it was traversed by the great Mughal Emperors, whose caravans of horses, elephants, camels and the royal foot soldiers, has left their legacy to continue to live on, with Mughal Gardens, magnificent palaces and splendid buildings of majestic-art and architecture of the Mughal era. Our motor Biking expedition  through this amazing nerve breaking Mughal Road, will further lay an impression on our minds with the saga of  those who ruled our country for nearly for four many centuries.

Prior to the Mughal Emperors, to invade Kashmir, these formidable rugged terrains were used by brutal raiders, blood thirsty tribal chieftains, ruthless robbers, savage and merciless invaders and was also used by the King of Kings, the Alexandra the great. The proof of it is, because en-route on this Mughal Road, there is a small village that is named after the name of his one of the most favorite and personal horse, called as (Bunifales), who is supposed to have been buried in this village, that is now called as “Buffliaz”. 

There historic ruins, of the Lohar Kote fort, near Poonch, proves that to invade Kashmir, even Mohmood Gazanavi traveled this Mughal route. Which, then was called as Gateway of Kashmir. At this fort, Raja Trilochan Pal defeated Sultan Mohmood Gazanavi.

On later dates, the road was historically used by the Mughal Emperors to conquer Kashmir during the sixteenth century. It was the route used by Akbar the Great to conquer Kashmir in 1586, and later frequently traversed for picnics and pleasures by his son Emperor Jahangir, who died on his way back from Kashmir at Sarai Sadabad in 1627. After his death, there were speculations of revolt by his heirs for the succession of the throne of Hindustan. To overcome this revolt, it was necessary to keep the secret of his death. So his body was preserved in Chingus & to avoid decaying, the entrails were removed and buried in the Chingus Fort, near Rajouri (Chingus means Intestines in Persian). Then his hey-stuffed body, in a sitting posture on a royal elephant was taken to Lahore, so that no one suspected that the King Jahangir was dead, till his rightful son Sahajahan was declared the future king of Hindustan. Later his body was transferred to Lahore to be buried in Shahdara Bagh, a suburb of Lahore, Punjab.

CHAPTER--1 of (15)

Our plan for day-1 (21st  Jauly) is-----

Just Jammu-city sight seeing

On 20th of July-2012, I, ASHOK PARIMOO along with my elder brother BUSHAN PARIMOO went to receive our “United Riders Udupi”, Club members KRISHNA HEBBAR, KIRAN KINNI, GANESH and ABHIMANYU AVABHRATH, who reached Jammu railway station by train from Udupi via Delhi, to participate in the Mughal Road adventurous escapade

From Jammu railway station we drove down straight to PARIMOO house at Talab-Tillo Jammu-Tawi, where all of us had planned to stay for two nights. 

After freshening up as well as after having Parimoo house's authentic Kashmiri delicious dinner, all of us slept deep, just like a dead wooden log. Next day morning after the breakfast, we went to collect our motor bikes from the transporter, through whom we had transported our motor bike from Udupi to Jammu. And then after collecting the our motor bikes, we left them at the motor bike mechanic's garage for the final mechanical mending. 

After that we went around Jammu city sight seeing.


The city of JamMu, besides being the winter capital of the state of J & K, is also known as the city of temples.

Newly constructed twin bridges at River Tawi
It is believed that Raja Jamboo Lochan originally founded the city in the 14th century. According to the popular legend, while the Raja was hunting one day, he happened to witness a tiger and a goat drinking water side by side from the river Tawi. He was so struck by this extraordinary phenomenon that he decided to build his Kingdom at this site so that the strong and the weak could live together in peace and mutual tolerance. Eventually, he founded the city, which came to be known as “JAMBOO” after his own name. The name later got anglicized to that of JAMMU, as it is called now.

Prime Attractions around Jammu City

Raghunath Mandir is a nucleus of a group of temples. This temple is situated in the city centre and is dedicated to LORD RAMA.
Maharaja Gulab Singh who founded the kingdom of Jammu & Kashmir initiated the intrivate work of the temple in 1835, which was completed in 1860 by his son, Maharaja Ranbir Singh. Among the temples in Jammu, this Raghunath Mandir temple takes the pride of the places being situated right in the heart of the city. Tis temple is 130 years old and this temple takes the pride of being the largest temple complex in Noth India.

Situated at the city centre, the inner walls of the main temple are covered with Gold Sheets on the three sides, while the interiors of the temple are plated with Gold. There are many Galleries of SALLIGRAMAS. The temple is dedicated to the various GODS and  GODDESSES connected with the epic RAMAYANA, which makes it rare holly place to behold. The temple consists of seven shrines, each with a tower of its own. The main sanctuary is dedicated to LORD VISHNU’S eighth incarnation, the RAMA.


This Fort temple is dedicated to the GODDESS MAHAKALI.

This fort is perhaps the oldest fort structure in Jammu and it is believed to be built by RAJA BAHULOCHAN, nearly 3,000 years ago. It is situated on the left bank of River Tawi. Inside the temple MAHAKALI is worshiped. This temple is supposed to be very powerful and who so ever prays here, their prayers are always fulfilled. Beware, around this temple complex there are more armies of monkeys than the devotees. And mind you these monkeys violently and furiously attack you to grab the eats from your hands. Better carry a long stick when you venture into the temple.


Built bt MAHARAJ RANBIR SINGH in 1883, this temple is dedicated to LORD SHIVA. Housed in side the temple are 12 crystal Shivallingams called as “SPATIC SHIVALLINGAMS”, those are placed surrounding one long central spatic-lingam, which is 7.5 feet tall. Inside the temple any where you see, you find nothing other than thousands of Lingas of all sizes fixed all around in galleries slabs. At the centre of the inside temple, there is a huge black stone Linga which is easily more than 12 feet in height and six feet in diameter.   Ranbir-Eshwar temple has it’s own legend, that whoever big problem you may have, once you pray there sincerely, your problems are solved. This famous temple is located on Shalamar road, right opposite to Jammu’s civil Secretariat.


Just 5 Km away from Jammu city centre, on the out skirts of Jammu there is a cave shrine, where deep indise a narrow cave there is a shivallingam. According to a popular myth, there is are underground pathways in the cave those lead to many other caves shrines, in and out of the country. The PEER KHOH cave temple is at overlooking the river Tawi and it is widely believed That the RAMAYANA CHARACTER JAMVANT (the bear God), meditated in this cave.


PANCHBAKHTAR  (Five Faces) MAHADEV MANDIR, occuoies a unique place in Jammu City of temples. It is one of the oldest SHIVALYA’S in the city. Old tales and the local oral myth states that ADI SHANKARA ACHARYA, visited this site and meditated here. While some local lore’s  believe that this temple was dismuch later, during the reign of RAJA MAL DEV, in early fourteenth century. The Lingam in this temple is self-manifested (AAP SHAMBHU). On the auspicious MAHA SHIVRATARI day, this place is thronged  throughout the day with a sea of devotees. 

So on 21st of July, i.e. the day ONE of our tour,  we roamed around Jammu city sight seeing.

Just a statement of my thoughts LINK